Fact Finder - Food and Drink
Origin of the Croissant
The croissant you enjoy each morning actually traces its roots to Austria, not France. It descends from the kipferl, a crescent-shaped pastry dating back to at least the 13th century. The popular legend tying its shape to the 1683 Siege of Vienna? Historians say it's apocryphal. An Austrian baker named August Zang brought the pastry to Paris in 1838, where French bakers transformed it into something entirely their own — and that transformation is where things get truly fascinating.
Key Takeaways
- The croissant evolved from the kipferl, an Austrian crescent-shaped roll dating back to at least the 13th century.
- A popular legend falsely credits the croissant's crescent shape to the 1683 Ottoman siege of Vienna, but kipferl predates this event.
- August Zang introduced Viennese-style pastries to Paris by opening a bakery at 92 Rue de Richelieu around 1838–1839.
- The modern croissant's flaky texture came from lamination, a technique of folding butter into dough to create distinct layers.
- Sylvain Claudius Goy published the first French laminated croissant recipe in 1915, marking the birth of the modern croissant.
Meet the Kipferl, the 700-Year-Old Pastry That Predates the Croissant
Before the croissant became a symbol of French breakfast culture, there was the Kipferl—a crescent-shaped, yeasted pastry from Vienna, Austria, that dates back to at least the 13th century. You can trace its earliest written mention to a 1227 poem, where it appeared as a Christmas treat presented to Duke Leopold.
Unlike the flaky croissant you know today, the Kipferl uses a denser, brioche-like dough. It's a proud Viennese tradition, sold in coffee shops and baked during Christmas. You'll also find almond variations, where bakers top the pastry with sugar and almonds, serving it fresh and fragile from the oven.
This humble pastry laid the groundwork for the croissant, cornetti, and other beloved crescent-shaped pastries enjoyed worldwide. Popular lore even connects the Kipferl's curved shape to the Ottoman crescent moon, linking its distinct form to the symbolic flag of the empire that once laid siege to Vienna in 1683. When stale, leftover Kipferl were never wasted—bakers would repurpose them into a sweet bread pudding known as Kipfelkoch.
Did the Siege of Vienna Really Inspire the Croissant?
One of the most romanticized stories in pastry history claims that the croissant was born from the Siege of Vienna in 1683. According to baker folklore, Viennese bakers working overnight heard Ottoman forces tunneling beneath the city walls and alerted authorities, helping defeat the attack. They supposedly shaped a crescent pastry to mock the Ottoman flag as celebration.
It's a compelling story, but siege archaeology and historical records don't support it. The Kipferl already existed centuries before 1683, with documentation tracing it back to the 12th or 13th century. Historians widely consider the origin legend apocryphal.
While bakers did play a role in detecting the tunneling, the crescent shape likely came from pagan customs or monastery baking traditions, not battlefield mockery. Much like how the Amazon rainforest contains remarkable phenomena shaped by invisible forces such as differences in temperature, density, and speed, the croissant's true origins are shaped by unseen historical currents rather than the dramatic legend most people believe. The belief that the Austrian Kipferl served as the model for the French croissant is often linked to Marie Antoinette, who brought the pastry tradition to France after marrying Louis XVI. In reality, it was August Zang, an Austrian entrepreneur, who opened a Viennese-style boulangerie in Paris in 1838 and introduced the crescent pastry to Parisians.
Why Was the Kipferl Renamed the Croissant?
How did a humble Austrian pastry end up with a French name that stuck for centuries? When August Zang's Viennese bakery introduced the kipferl to Parisian crowds, French bakers didn't just copy the recipe—they claimed it through linguistic adaptation.
"Kipferl," meaning crescent in German, became "croissant," the French word for the same shape. This wasn't accidental. French culinary nationalism drove bakers to reframe foreign imports under local naming conventions, making the pastry feel authentically French.
Culinary branding played an equally important role—a French name carried prestige and marketability in 19th-century Paris. By renaming the kipferl, French bakers effectively nationalized it. The transformation went beyond naming, as French bakers also replaced the kipferl's brioche dough with yeast-leavened laminated dough, creating the flaky, buttery texture the croissant is known for today.
You can still see the original logic today: both names reference the same crescent shape, just through different languages. The kipferl's crescent shape itself is said to trace back to the Ottoman flag's crescent symbol, commemorating Austria's defense against the Ottoman invasion in the 17th century. Much like how the yellow jersey's color was chosen to reflect the identity of the publication behind the Tour de France, the croissant's name was chosen to reflect the cultural identity of the country that popularized it.
The Austrian Baker Who Brought the Croissant to Paris
August Zang didn't stumble into baking—he engineered it. This Viennese entrepreneur was born in Vienna in 1807 and trained as an Austrian artillery officer before pivoting to pastry. Think of him as a military baker who applied tactical precision to the craft.
After arriving in Paris, he opened the Boulangerie Viennoise in 1838 at 92 Rue Richelieu. It wasn't just a bakery—it was a cultural statement. He introduced Parisians to authentic Austrian breads and pastries, including the kipferl, a dense, crescent-shaped treat that had existed since the 13th century.
His upscale shop attracted high society, and within ten years, the kipferl's popularity exploded across Paris. Zang didn't just sell pastries—he rewired French baking entirely, setting the foundation for what you now call the croissant. After his brief time in baking, Zang went on to become a wealthy banker, mine-owner, and press magnate in Vienna.
French pastry chefs later refined the kipferl by developing a laminating process, folding high-quality butter repeatedly into the dough to create the light, flaky, and airy texture that defines the modern croissant.
When Did "Croissant" First Appear in Print?
The earliest known recipe dates to 1905, with Colombié's Nouvelle Encyclopédie Culinaire publishing what many consider the first modern version in 1906. In 1915, Sylvain Claudius Goy published what is considered the first French croissant recipe to use laminated yeast dough, creating the airy, flaky layers that define the modern croissant. Much like kimchi, whose large-scale preparation known as Kimjang was recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage, the croissant's development reflects how food traditions can become deeply embedded in cultural identity.
What Actually Separates a French Croissant From a Kipferl?
Both pastries share a crescent shape, but that's where the similarities end. The kipferl uses a denser, brioche-like dough with less buttery texture, resembling a German bread roll. The croissant, however, relies on lamination techniques that layer butter throughout yeasted puff pastry, creating its signature flakiness.
August Zang introduced steam-oven baking to refine the kipferl, but the true croissant emerged in 1915 when Goy incorporated pâte feuilletée. That shift transformed a simple Viennese roll into a distinctly French pastry. Today, modern variations use all-butter homemade doughs that amplify richness and structure.
Regional preferences also shape how each pastry is enjoyed. France embraces the all-butter croissant as a breakfast staple, while the kipferl remains rooted in Austrian tradition, still made without lamination.
How Laminated Dough Changed the Croissant Forever
Laminated dough reshaped the croissant from a dense Viennese roll into the flaky, buttery pastry France claims today. The lamination technique works through precise butter interaction across repeated folding and rolling cycles. When baked, water in the butter vaporizes, forcing layers apart while lipids fry the dough simultaneously.
Three developments made this transformation permanent:
- French pastry chefs in the mid-1800s refined folding methods, creating over eighty distinct dough layers.
- Sylvain Claudius Goy integrated yeast with lamination in 1915, producing the modern croissant's signature rise.
- Butter replaced lard entirely, elevating texture and flavor beyond any earlier version.
You're basically looking at a pastry redefined by technique, not just ingredients. Lamination didn't refine the croissant—it reinvented it. Pâte feuilletée was first formally documented by Pierre De La Varenne in 1653, laying the technical groundwork that would eventually make lamination central to croissant production.
The croissant belongs to the Viennoiserie category, a family of baked goods that includes brioche, Danish, and puff pastries, all of which share the yeast-leavened laminated structure that defines their characteristic flaky texture and layered interior.
Which Recipe First Defined the Modern Croissant?
Once lamination redefined the croissant's texture, someone had to commit the formula to paper. That person was Sylvain Claudius Goy, who published the first known French croissant recipe in 1915 in La Cuisine Anglo-Americaine.
Goy's recipe replaced brioche dough with a yeast fermentation base, producing a lighter, more voluminous pastry. He then applied butter folding through multiple roll-ins, creating the paper-thin, flaky layers you now associate with a modern croissant.
Before Goy standardized this method, croissants were still dense, un-laminated pastries. His formula changed that permanently. By combining controlled fermentation with precise butter folding, he transformed a humble crescent-shaped roll into the crisp, airy, buttery pastry that's now a global breakfast staple. The croissant's roots, however, stretch back to 1683 in Vienna, where bakers first created a crescent-shaped roll to celebrate a military victory over the Turkish army.
His 1915 recipe remains the defining benchmark of the modern croissant. The path to that benchmark was shaped in part by August Zang, an Austrian artillery officer who opened a Viennese bakery in Paris in 1839, introducing Parisians to the kipferl and sparking the cultural exchange that would eventually lead to the croissant's French transformation.
Why the French Croissant and the Kipferl Are No Longer the Same Pastry
Though they share a crescent shape and a common ancestor, the French croissant and the Austrian kipferl have become entirely different pastries. Texture evolution and ingredient shifts drove this split:
- Dough: Kipferl uses brioche-style yeasted dough; croissants use laminated puff pastry.
- Technique: French bakers introduced butter lamination, creating distinct flaky layers kipferl never had.
- Purpose: Kipferl pairs with jam or honey as a light treat; croissants became a dedicated breakfast staple.
You can trace this divergence to early 20th-century France, when bakers abandoned the original denser dough entirely. By 1915, Sylvain Claudius Goy's recipe formalized laminated dough as the croissant standard, permanently separating both pastries despite their shared crescent identity. The kipferl itself dates back to the 13th century, making the croissant's eventual transformation all the more remarkable given how long the original form had endured.
How the Croissant Became France's Defining Breakfast Pastry
When August Zang opened his Viennese bakery at 92 Rue de Richelieu around 1839, he couldn't have predicted that his kipferl-like pastry would transform into France's most iconic breakfast item. Parisians quickly adopted the croissant into their daily routines, making it a fixture of Parisian mornings by mid-19th century.
French bakers refined the original recipe, replacing dense dough with lighter, laminated layers. Butter sourcing became essential to this transformation, as high-quality French butter elevated the pastry's richness and flavor beyond its Austrian origins.
By the early 20th century, the croissant symbolized French gastronomy and culinary identity. Charles Dickens even noted its presence as a breakfast staple. The innovation that made this possible was the adaptation of yeasted puff pastry, a novel departure from how puff pastry had previously been used in vol-au-vents and pastry shells.
Today, you'll find it consumed worldwide, yet it remains permanently tied to French cultural heritage. The croissant's global reach has inspired inventive modern variations, from cronuts to filled options featuring flavours like matcha cream and chocolate-hazelnut.